Monday, September 28, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
La Corrida de Toros
Between studying for two tests and preparing for my upcoming trip to Ireland and Paris, I have had little time for many cultural adventures. That is until this weekend. I visited the Capilla Real where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel are buried, as well as the enormous Cathedral built by Carlos V. And not only did I attend my first bullfight but I also got to wade through the craziness that is the celebration of the Virgin of Angustias. I know I have mentioned this whole saint thing before but today was the day that the wooden figurine of the Virgin was paraded all around town and the place was packed! Stall after stall of vendors selling dried fruit and chestnuts literally roasting on an open fire filled the streets. The most popular places were those selling the "Torta de la Virgin" which is basically a huge pastry filled with chocolate. What would have usually taken me a 30 minute walk to get home from the Plaza de Toros took closer to an hour because of the crowd.
But back to this bullfight. I know I have mentioned the Spanish tradition of bullfighting before but now having actually seen a complete corrida here in Granada, I feel like I have a little more to go on than just here-say from various Spaniards. So yes, here in Spain the bull is killed and at first, I was shocked and a little disgusted watching it. However as the corrida went on, despite my best intentions, I began to enjoy it. I don't think I can ever get used to the killing part but there really is something noble about the bulls. Think about it this way: (PETA people are going to hate me) hundreds of thousands of cows go to slaughter every day for our hamburgers, yet here, that animal is glorified. Red meat is not very popular in Spain and I actually had a hamburger the other day made of ham. The bulls used in corridas are worth thousands of dollars and are viewed by fans as the protagonist in the whole show and treated with respect.
So here is how it works. First, the matador uses his bandera to get the bull to charge just to show the audience how strong the bull actually is. I think at this point, if the bull was viewed to be not fit to the task, they would send it home. Then two men on horseback (their horses are covered with armor and wear blindfolds. This is the part that bothers me the most) known as picadors come out and stab the back of the bull once. Usually the bull ends up charging the horse who stands there and takes it, though I assume the horse doesn't get hurt because of the armor but I don't really know for sure. Then the matador is given smaller stakes to put in the bull's back, which he does with no protection. Finally, he uses the smaller red cape to do some amazing fancy footwork before killing the bull with a carefully aimed sword.
In this particular corrida, one of the matadors actually was shoved to the ground and his leg was mauled bad enough that he was bleeding through his pants and had to wear a sort of tourniquet. However, he came back better than ever and proceeded to do some crazy maneuvering. For example, once he got on his knees and coaxed the bull over with his bandera; he did this more than once. Another time, he had one hand on the bull's back and it was almost like the two of them were dancing together. When a matador does really well, the audience will stand up and wave white flags and if the bull is exceptionally brave, they will display the body to the audience.
I know this may sound horrible and as we left the stadium and were greeted by a few protesters, reality set back in, but I actually really enjoyed the experience. I have heard that in Mexico, they do not actually kill the bull so that would perhaps be better to see. However, now I feel like I understand a little more about the sport and the culture behind it. One thing I do have to say though. Do not, DO NOT watch your first bullfight on TV. Without the atmosphere and the band playing the Paso Doble in the background, I can imagine that would be horrible...
But back to this bullfight. I know I have mentioned the Spanish tradition of bullfighting before but now having actually seen a complete corrida here in Granada, I feel like I have a little more to go on than just here-say from various Spaniards. So yes, here in Spain the bull is killed and at first, I was shocked and a little disgusted watching it. However as the corrida went on, despite my best intentions, I began to enjoy it. I don't think I can ever get used to the killing part but there really is something noble about the bulls. Think about it this way: (PETA people are going to hate me) hundreds of thousands of cows go to slaughter every day for our hamburgers, yet here, that animal is glorified. Red meat is not very popular in Spain and I actually had a hamburger the other day made of ham. The bulls used in corridas are worth thousands of dollars and are viewed by fans as the protagonist in the whole show and treated with respect.
So here is how it works. First, the matador uses his bandera to get the bull to charge just to show the audience how strong the bull actually is. I think at this point, if the bull was viewed to be not fit to the task, they would send it home. Then two men on horseback (their horses are covered with armor and wear blindfolds. This is the part that bothers me the most) known as picadors come out and stab the back of the bull once. Usually the bull ends up charging the horse who stands there and takes it, though I assume the horse doesn't get hurt because of the armor but I don't really know for sure. Then the matador is given smaller stakes to put in the bull's back, which he does with no protection. Finally, he uses the smaller red cape to do some amazing fancy footwork before killing the bull with a carefully aimed sword.
In this particular corrida, one of the matadors actually was shoved to the ground and his leg was mauled bad enough that he was bleeding through his pants and had to wear a sort of tourniquet. However, he came back better than ever and proceeded to do some crazy maneuvering. For example, once he got on his knees and coaxed the bull over with his bandera; he did this more than once. Another time, he had one hand on the bull's back and it was almost like the two of them were dancing together. When a matador does really well, the audience will stand up and wave white flags and if the bull is exceptionally brave, they will display the body to the audience.
I know this may sound horrible and as we left the stadium and were greeted by a few protesters, reality set back in, but I actually really enjoyed the experience. I have heard that in Mexico, they do not actually kill the bull so that would perhaps be better to see. However, now I feel like I understand a little more about the sport and the culture behind it. One thing I do have to say though. Do not, DO NOT watch your first bullfight on TV. Without the atmosphere and the band playing the Paso Doble in the background, I can imagine that would be horrible...
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Because I'm tired of putting a few of my photos here instead of letting you see all of them...
http://jsewardsespana.shutterfly.com/
La Alhambra
Sometimes a place is so famous that you think there is no way it can live up to all of the hype surrounding it. You know that the moment you enter inside, it will be a let-down and no matter how much you try to build it up in your mind, it will never resemble the place that you imagined. The Alhambra is not this place.
Exactly four weeks after my initial arrival in Granada, we took our first tour of the Generalife and the Alhambra. The Generalife was the royal family's residence and The Alhambra (mainly the Palacio de los Nazaries) was the Sultan's palace during the Arabic rule in Granada which lasted from 711-1492. Despite the crowd of tourists and the restoration of various areas of the palace, it was an incredible experience.
First walking into the Palacio de los Nazaries, I kept thinking "wow, this is it?" Sure there were mosaics and intricate designs on the walls but especially after our guide told us they were made from moldings, I was a little underwhelmed. However, we continued through the room and entered into the first patio. The fountain in the center was low set since Arab rulers did not have thrones -- they sat on carpets. But the facades of the buildings were completely covered with Arabic characters and designs in plaster. If you looked closely, it was amazing how many actual words were written and apparently, these form poems and phrases, welcoming visitors and describing parables.
We moved on to one of the most famous parts of The Palace where foreign visitors would enter to meet with The Sultan. Here a long pool reflected the imposing arches of the entryway. Once inside, the entire tower was again covered with Arabic figures and detail which at one point were painted in reds, blues, and greens. The ceiling was a marvel too, made of dark wood with a spiral design of stars and planets to represent the seven levels of heaven. I am sure that back at the peak of the Muslim Empire with the floor covered in carpets and the brilliant mosaics shining above the water, the palace must have been spectacular. It still is.
I know that describing a place to someone via a blog is perhaps boring for some of you, dear readers. However, if you never see The Alhambra, I feel it is a duty of mine to describe it to you. Seriously, it should be one of the seven wonders of the world, even if it is missing some color...
Exactly four weeks after my initial arrival in Granada, we took our first tour of the Generalife and the Alhambra. The Generalife was the royal family's residence and The Alhambra (mainly the Palacio de los Nazaries) was the Sultan's palace during the Arabic rule in Granada which lasted from 711-1492. Despite the crowd of tourists and the restoration of various areas of the palace, it was an incredible experience.
First walking into the Palacio de los Nazaries, I kept thinking "wow, this is it?" Sure there were mosaics and intricate designs on the walls but especially after our guide told us they were made from moldings, I was a little underwhelmed. However, we continued through the room and entered into the first patio. The fountain in the center was low set since Arab rulers did not have thrones -- they sat on carpets. But the facades of the buildings were completely covered with Arabic characters and designs in plaster. If you looked closely, it was amazing how many actual words were written and apparently, these form poems and phrases, welcoming visitors and describing parables.
We moved on to one of the most famous parts of The Palace where foreign visitors would enter to meet with The Sultan. Here a long pool reflected the imposing arches of the entryway. Once inside, the entire tower was again covered with Arabic figures and detail which at one point were painted in reds, blues, and greens. The ceiling was a marvel too, made of dark wood with a spiral design of stars and planets to represent the seven levels of heaven. I am sure that back at the peak of the Muslim Empire with the floor covered in carpets and the brilliant mosaics shining above the water, the palace must have been spectacular. It still is.
I know that describing a place to someone via a blog is perhaps boring for some of you, dear readers. However, if you never see The Alhambra, I feel it is a duty of mine to describe it to you. Seriously, it should be one of the seven wonders of the world, even if it is missing some color...
Sunday, September 20, 2009
La Mezquita
First off, let me apologize for being so remiss in my duties as to not update this blog on Wednesday. But, honestly, I really didn't have that much to write about. Now that I am really starting to settle in here, life is becoming quite a bit more routine. Well, other than the fact that I'm in Spain. In the interest of keeping things short and sweet, I will attempt to give a brief run-down for the week and of course, I will be adding some pictures as soon as my internet connection get its act together.
On Tuesday, I met up with my intercambio partner again. She had friends visiting from Seville so we wandered around the city. The best part was eating piononos (small, custardy tarts that the Granada area is famous for) while watching the surrounding city celebrate the Virgin of Anguish. Basically every city in Spain has a saint and every saint has a day. On the 15 of September, La Virgen de Angustias got special treatment. People lined up for hours to decorate the front of the church with flowers, and planes actually flew overhead and sprinkled flowers on the esplanade near the church. It was quite a sight.
Then on Wednesday I actually went to eat lunch with my intercambio partner and her family. It was a lot of fun and I was really surprised with how much of the conversation I could understand. As far as the food goes, it incorporated all of my favorite ingredients: a salad with olives, corn, tomatoes; a baguette; french fries; ham; and fried eggs. Oh yeah, sounds super healthy right? And for dessert? A lovely watermelon. It was definitely nice to get out of my usual routine and my intercambio partner is very fun to hang out with. Plus, I got to speak and listen to a lot of Spanish. And then Wednesday night it was time to go dancing with my American friends! At a nearby discotech, international students got in for free, so we boogied on the dance floor for an hour or two to American music of course (it's frustrating because they don't play much else here!) before calling it a night. Not bad for the hump day of the week.
On Thursday, a large group of us went out for Chinese food (random I know, but I'd been craving it). It was delicious and cheap which is always good. Afterward, our group headed to Hannigan's for Karaoke. Now I know what you all are thinking: Why would Jenny be going to sing American songs at an Irish pub in Spain? Well, basically because it was one of the most fun nights I have had here! The place was packed and I have to say my rendition of RESPECT by Aretha Franklin was well-received. Of course, "American Pie" and the Spice Girls also were big crowd pleasers. As much as I would like to go every week, I have decided to adhere to the philosophy that some things are great because they happen just once or a few times so I think I will have to leave Hannigan's again for another month.
Fasting forward through Friday (went to the botellon and then dancing with the girls -- nothing much to report. It was fun but not incredible or anything) and Saturday (I didn't do much and went to bed at about 11), we arrive at today. As part of our program, our group went to Cordoba (accent on the first "o" mind you. It is not CorDOba) to see the ancient Mezquita and to partake in two deliciously relaxing hours in the Arab baths.
After driving through the countryside littered with olive groves and the occasional small town dominated overhead by an impressive castle, we arrived at the Guadilquivir River. It is the first real river I have yet seen here in Spain. The water was muddy and shallow but nevertheless, I was impressed. Crossing the bridge, we came to the old town and the Jewish Quarter. At first, we had some free time so I headed to the Alcazar or Castle built by the Christian conquerors in the 13th century. The gardens were absolutely amazing and I felt for a bit like I was in Alice in Wonderland. Long pools filled with carp, flowers, and well groomed hedges and statues lined the walkways. Once inside the ramparts I couldn't help but be reminded by Edgar Allen Poe's "The Pit and the Pendulum." Something tells me The Inquisition made good use of the place.
Then our group partook in the Arab baths. Of course the building was a replica but that did not take away from the experience. Basically in an Arab bath there are three baths and a turkish sauna and you rotate between them. The first is the lukewarm pool, then the hot pools/ sauna, and lastly the cold water. Then to top things off, we received a 15 minute massage. Needless to say, I think I chose the right study abroad program for me.
Then we took a tour of the Mezquita. There are really no words to describe the place."Incredible" just does not do it justice. It was first built by the Caliphate of Cordoba in the 10th century and then added on to by other Arab rulers and later, by the Catholic Church. The whole of the building is filled with arches built of brick and rock and the walls and ceilings are decorated with intricately carved designs typical of moorish architecture. What really becomes interesting are the Christian additions to the building. Between the arches, there are richly painted murals depicting scenes from the bible and right smack dab in the middle of temple is a Catholic Cathedral. It was all beautiful separately, but together, some things felt a little out of place.
On Tuesday, I met up with my intercambio partner again. She had friends visiting from Seville so we wandered around the city. The best part was eating piononos (small, custardy tarts that the Granada area is famous for) while watching the surrounding city celebrate the Virgin of Anguish. Basically every city in Spain has a saint and every saint has a day. On the 15 of September, La Virgen de Angustias got special treatment. People lined up for hours to decorate the front of the church with flowers, and planes actually flew overhead and sprinkled flowers on the esplanade near the church. It was quite a sight.
Then on Wednesday I actually went to eat lunch with my intercambio partner and her family. It was a lot of fun and I was really surprised with how much of the conversation I could understand. As far as the food goes, it incorporated all of my favorite ingredients: a salad with olives, corn, tomatoes; a baguette; french fries; ham; and fried eggs. Oh yeah, sounds super healthy right? And for dessert? A lovely watermelon. It was definitely nice to get out of my usual routine and my intercambio partner is very fun to hang out with. Plus, I got to speak and listen to a lot of Spanish. And then Wednesday night it was time to go dancing with my American friends! At a nearby discotech, international students got in for free, so we boogied on the dance floor for an hour or two to American music of course (it's frustrating because they don't play much else here!) before calling it a night. Not bad for the hump day of the week.
On Thursday, a large group of us went out for Chinese food (random I know, but I'd been craving it). It was delicious and cheap which is always good. Afterward, our group headed to Hannigan's for Karaoke. Now I know what you all are thinking: Why would Jenny be going to sing American songs at an Irish pub in Spain? Well, basically because it was one of the most fun nights I have had here! The place was packed and I have to say my rendition of RESPECT by Aretha Franklin was well-received. Of course, "American Pie" and the Spice Girls also were big crowd pleasers. As much as I would like to go every week, I have decided to adhere to the philosophy that some things are great because they happen just once or a few times so I think I will have to leave Hannigan's again for another month.
Fasting forward through Friday (went to the botellon and then dancing with the girls -- nothing much to report. It was fun but not incredible or anything) and Saturday (I didn't do much and went to bed at about 11), we arrive at today. As part of our program, our group went to Cordoba (accent on the first "o" mind you. It is not CorDOba) to see the ancient Mezquita and to partake in two deliciously relaxing hours in the Arab baths.
After driving through the countryside littered with olive groves and the occasional small town dominated overhead by an impressive castle, we arrived at the Guadilquivir River. It is the first real river I have yet seen here in Spain. The water was muddy and shallow but nevertheless, I was impressed. Crossing the bridge, we came to the old town and the Jewish Quarter. At first, we had some free time so I headed to the Alcazar or Castle built by the Christian conquerors in the 13th century. The gardens were absolutely amazing and I felt for a bit like I was in Alice in Wonderland. Long pools filled with carp, flowers, and well groomed hedges and statues lined the walkways. Once inside the ramparts I couldn't help but be reminded by Edgar Allen Poe's "The Pit and the Pendulum." Something tells me The Inquisition made good use of the place.
Then our group partook in the Arab baths. Of course the building was a replica but that did not take away from the experience. Basically in an Arab bath there are three baths and a turkish sauna and you rotate between them. The first is the lukewarm pool, then the hot pools/ sauna, and lastly the cold water. Then to top things off, we received a 15 minute massage. Needless to say, I think I chose the right study abroad program for me.
Then we took a tour of the Mezquita. There are really no words to describe the place."Incredible" just does not do it justice. It was first built by the Caliphate of Cordoba in the 10th century and then added on to by other Arab rulers and later, by the Catholic Church. The whole of the building is filled with arches built of brick and rock and the walls and ceilings are decorated with intricately carved designs typical of moorish architecture. What really becomes interesting are the Christian additions to the building. Between the arches, there are richly painted murals depicting scenes from the bible and right smack dab in the middle of temple is a Catholic Cathedral. It was all beautiful separately, but together, some things felt a little out of place.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Que Guay
Another weekend has come and gone in Granada, and with it, any possibility of sleep for me. This weekend started out on Thursday night with the 21st birthday of one of the students on our program. To celebrate, almost 20 people from the program went to the botellon. To understand the botellon, you must first be aware that 1) it is expensive to go out to bars all the time, and 2) There are tens of thousands of students in Granada. So basically the botellon is a large park in which it is legal to drink outside of restaurants and bars. And since a bottle of wine can be found at the Mercadona for .78 euro cents, this is definitely the way to socialize and save money. I did not stay out for that long but it was an interesting experience nonetheless -- there are police monitoring it to make sure it's safe around the area and I am pretty sure I spotted some 11-12 year olds hanging around the vicinity. If this hadn't been Spain, I would have felt like asking "do your parents know you're here?" but as they say, no pasa nada.
After class on Friday, I took a nice long nap before meeting a few girls from our class for churros and chocolate which is about one of the most delicious creations known to mankind. Then we just wandered around until around 12, taking in the city sights and sounds before the weather starts to get cooler (rain in the forecast!). I love that I can be walking home at 12:30, feel absolutely safe, and have to dodge 80 year old couples still strolling around, long after any of their US counterparts would be asleep back in the states.
Saturday dawned rather too early, as I had to get to the bus station to hike in the Alpujarras, which is a region of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The ride was about 2 hours and I have never been on such a windy, curvy road in my life. I feel lucky that I managed to avoid any carsickness on the trip up and back. We (me and four other girls from my program) arrived in Pampaneira, a tiny whitewashed town perched in the mountains and above a river with the highest point in continental Spain, the Mulhacen, towering above. It could have been out of a fairy tale: narrow streets, all the houses bursting with flowers over the balconies, a tiny plaza and church serving as the town watering hole. Most of the towns in the mountains are within several kilometers of each other so we decided to leave Pampaneira behind and climb up to Capileira via Bubion. The man at the information desk told us the trail was well marked and gave us a map. However, after we had been walking for about 30 minutes, we felt like we were lost -- the trail had narrowed and we were scrambling over loose rocks above the canyon. We were also finding many abandoned houses made of stone, remnants of the silver and agriculture boom days. But we really did not want to turn back. So (Dad you'd be proud), we bushwhacked up the hill to the town of Bubion, finally reaching a parking lot where the trailhead to Capileira began. This time, we definitely were on the right trail and in the end, climbed about 2000 feet and hiked a good 6-7 miles. Needless to say, we were happy to arrive in Capileira. Once in town, we walked through deserted streets until we ended up at a small restaurant where the owner, an older man named Pepe, gave us free tapas and made delicious omelets. We also made friends with a local dog and two older men who were concerned we were not prepared for the weather as we waited for the bus. True, it had rained a bit, but it wasn't too terribly cold. All of this and the sheer beauty of the place definitely makes Capileira a place I would like to return or even retire to!
After a hot shower at home and dinner, I headed out once again to a music festival that was about a 30 minute walk from my house. It was very impressive, completely free, and well organized. On one side were vendors selling hamburgers, bocadillos and kebabs, as well as clothing and jewelry, and on the other side were all sorts of carnival rides. In a nearby field was a huge stage where artists were performing literally all night long. Unfortunately, while we were there, an older pair of men were playing English rock/ country (including "Bule Bule,") so I can't say it was completely a cultural experience. But it was a lot of fun and unfortunately I once again lost track of time and got home in the early morning.
Today the Vuelta a Espana came through Granada. Although this bike race isn't exactly as famous as the Tour de France, it definitely has quite a following and it was a lot of fun to take pictures of all the cyclists and try to figure out what the announcer was saying about all of them. Plus who could pass up free hats and lanyards? All in all, I would say a busy and great weekend. Now, time for a siesta.
After class on Friday, I took a nice long nap before meeting a few girls from our class for churros and chocolate which is about one of the most delicious creations known to mankind. Then we just wandered around until around 12, taking in the city sights and sounds before the weather starts to get cooler (rain in the forecast!). I love that I can be walking home at 12:30, feel absolutely safe, and have to dodge 80 year old couples still strolling around, long after any of their US counterparts would be asleep back in the states.
Saturday dawned rather too early, as I had to get to the bus station to hike in the Alpujarras, which is a region of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The ride was about 2 hours and I have never been on such a windy, curvy road in my life. I feel lucky that I managed to avoid any carsickness on the trip up and back. We (me and four other girls from my program) arrived in Pampaneira, a tiny whitewashed town perched in the mountains and above a river with the highest point in continental Spain, the Mulhacen, towering above. It could have been out of a fairy tale: narrow streets, all the houses bursting with flowers over the balconies, a tiny plaza and church serving as the town watering hole. Most of the towns in the mountains are within several kilometers of each other so we decided to leave Pampaneira behind and climb up to Capileira via Bubion. The man at the information desk told us the trail was well marked and gave us a map. However, after we had been walking for about 30 minutes, we felt like we were lost -- the trail had narrowed and we were scrambling over loose rocks above the canyon. We were also finding many abandoned houses made of stone, remnants of the silver and agriculture boom days. But we really did not want to turn back. So (Dad you'd be proud), we bushwhacked up the hill to the town of Bubion, finally reaching a parking lot where the trailhead to Capileira began. This time, we definitely were on the right trail and in the end, climbed about 2000 feet and hiked a good 6-7 miles. Needless to say, we were happy to arrive in Capileira. Once in town, we walked through deserted streets until we ended up at a small restaurant where the owner, an older man named Pepe, gave us free tapas and made delicious omelets. We also made friends with a local dog and two older men who were concerned we were not prepared for the weather as we waited for the bus. True, it had rained a bit, but it wasn't too terribly cold. All of this and the sheer beauty of the place definitely makes Capileira a place I would like to return or even retire to!
After a hot shower at home and dinner, I headed out once again to a music festival that was about a 30 minute walk from my house. It was very impressive, completely free, and well organized. On one side were vendors selling hamburgers, bocadillos and kebabs, as well as clothing and jewelry, and on the other side were all sorts of carnival rides. In a nearby field was a huge stage where artists were performing literally all night long. Unfortunately, while we were there, an older pair of men were playing English rock/ country (including "Bule Bule,") so I can't say it was completely a cultural experience. But it was a lot of fun and unfortunately I once again lost track of time and got home in the early morning.
Today the Vuelta a Espana came through Granada. Although this bike race isn't exactly as famous as the Tour de France, it definitely has quite a following and it was a lot of fun to take pictures of all the cyclists and try to figure out what the announcer was saying about all of them. Plus who could pass up free hats and lanyards? All in all, I would say a busy and great weekend. Now, time for a siesta.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
La Comida y Las Bebidas
I am feeling a little more optimistic after my last post, especially since I met my intercambio language partner (basically a Spanish student who I hang out with and we spend half our time talking in English and half our time talking in Spanish) who is very nice and a lot of fun to talk to. However, I would prefer to spend a larger part of this post addressing that which I know most of you have been waiting for with abetted breath: food and drink in Spain.
As you well know, lunch is sacred here and breakfast and dinner are little more than afterthoughts. Of course, my homestay may be different because my roommate and I basically have free range of the kitchen for breakfast and dinner instead of having my mom make dinner for us, so my usual breakfast is cereal and my usual dinner is yogurt, cheese, a croissant or something like that. And I am learning to like black coffee (with milk of course). Though there is a specialty coffee shop called "Starbars" near campus, for the most part, it's hard to find anything fancier than an espresso.
As for lunch, you would be surprised by the variety. For example, on Sunday we had paella which is rice, some vegetables and shrimp seasoned with saffron. However yesterday, we had roasted chicken and french fries. I am definitely a fan of my host mom's lentil soup with sausage and the quintessential Spanish tortilla which is basically like a quiche with just egg and potato. At every lunch, we always have a salad of iceberg lettuce and tomato smothered in olive oil and balsamic vinegar and a baguette of some sort. Water is the lunchtime beverage. Dessert is usually a piece of fruit or yogurt or cheese. As a whole, I feel like vegetables are not an important part of the Spanish diet.
Outside of the house, tapas are definitely the way to go. I usually order a tinto de verano which is red wine, club soda, and lemon juice and with that come tapas. Of course, if you don't care about being labeled a guiri (the word for foreigner or gringo here), you can go for the sangria. Alhambra beer and red wine is also acceptable as is manzanilla, a sweeter, crisper white wine I had the other day. And if you want soda, the only choice is Coca-cola... or maybe a Fanta -- no Pepsi in sight. Most of these drinks cost between 2-3 euros which, at least in Granada, comes with tapas or small plates of food for free. A word about the beer -- I am not a beer drinker by nature so I usually order wine but let's just say that outside of the weak local beer, there's Guinness and Hefeweizen (sorry Dad and Uncle Paul).
Tapas are an art. You learn early on which places are good (I had a bocadilla with ham, cheese, and olive oil that was amazing and a plate of mussels at one place) and which places are disappointing (a plate of olives hardly counts). There were even tiny hamburgers on the menu along with anchovies, calamari, and tuna. And of course after that tapa, you need ice cream. There has to be one gelato shop for every two people in this city and the same with pastry shops. I think I have eaten gelato here almost every day since I arrived and I still haven't returned to the same place twice.
Thus, you can see where all that hard earned money of mine is really going. If you know me you know I have trouble practicing self-control when it comes to food... and here's not the place to start.
As you well know, lunch is sacred here and breakfast and dinner are little more than afterthoughts. Of course, my homestay may be different because my roommate and I basically have free range of the kitchen for breakfast and dinner instead of having my mom make dinner for us, so my usual breakfast is cereal and my usual dinner is yogurt, cheese, a croissant or something like that. And I am learning to like black coffee (with milk of course). Though there is a specialty coffee shop called "Starbars" near campus, for the most part, it's hard to find anything fancier than an espresso.
As for lunch, you would be surprised by the variety. For example, on Sunday we had paella which is rice, some vegetables and shrimp seasoned with saffron. However yesterday, we had roasted chicken and french fries. I am definitely a fan of my host mom's lentil soup with sausage and the quintessential Spanish tortilla which is basically like a quiche with just egg and potato. At every lunch, we always have a salad of iceberg lettuce and tomato smothered in olive oil and balsamic vinegar and a baguette of some sort. Water is the lunchtime beverage. Dessert is usually a piece of fruit or yogurt or cheese. As a whole, I feel like vegetables are not an important part of the Spanish diet.
Outside of the house, tapas are definitely the way to go. I usually order a tinto de verano which is red wine, club soda, and lemon juice and with that come tapas. Of course, if you don't care about being labeled a guiri (the word for foreigner or gringo here), you can go for the sangria. Alhambra beer and red wine is also acceptable as is manzanilla, a sweeter, crisper white wine I had the other day. And if you want soda, the only choice is Coca-cola... or maybe a Fanta -- no Pepsi in sight. Most of these drinks cost between 2-3 euros which, at least in Granada, comes with tapas or small plates of food for free. A word about the beer -- I am not a beer drinker by nature so I usually order wine but let's just say that outside of the weak local beer, there's Guinness and Hefeweizen (sorry Dad and Uncle Paul).
Tapas are an art. You learn early on which places are good (I had a bocadilla with ham, cheese, and olive oil that was amazing and a plate of mussels at one place) and which places are disappointing (a plate of olives hardly counts). There were even tiny hamburgers on the menu along with anchovies, calamari, and tuna. And of course after that tapa, you need ice cream. There has to be one gelato shop for every two people in this city and the same with pastry shops. I think I have eaten gelato here almost every day since I arrived and I still haven't returned to the same place twice.
Thus, you can see where all that hard earned money of mine is really going. If you know me you know I have trouble practicing self-control when it comes to food... and here's not the place to start.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Los Echo de Menos
For me, Sundays have always been a kind of day for reflection because usually they're the day when I am the least busy. So today, my first lazy weekend day spent in Granada, I am feeling a little homesick. Maybe it's just because I'm tired or because it is actually raining in Oregon, but I really really just want to be home now, relaxing and watching the Travel Channel. Things always seem better and more exciting when someone else is doing them. Traveling, or I guess in my case, living abroad, is plain tiring, especially once the novelty wears off.
At the same time, I feel like I haven't been taking full advantage of this experience. Sure I've already seen a lot in Andalucia, but the day to day living is what's not exactly turning out to be like I planned. For one, it's really hard to speak Spanish all the time with American students here. We either forget we're supposed to be speaking it at all or it's really hard to get to know people through their various levels of Spanish ability. Furthermore I have yet to meet any actual Spaniards apart from my teachers and host family. Sure I've gone into stores or restaurants and spoken to them but I want to make Spanish friends which is also proving hard since I'm only taking classes with American students.
I guess I'm just past the so-called "honeymoon" stage of studying abroad. I'm not really sure what I should be doing differently but as they say, something's got to give. Or maybe I should just lower my expectations. When I told people I was coming to Spain they always said it sounded amazing. Yeah, it is, but at the same time, it's like living anywhere else. And it's still not home.
At the same time, I feel like I haven't been taking full advantage of this experience. Sure I've already seen a lot in Andalucia, but the day to day living is what's not exactly turning out to be like I planned. For one, it's really hard to speak Spanish all the time with American students here. We either forget we're supposed to be speaking it at all or it's really hard to get to know people through their various levels of Spanish ability. Furthermore I have yet to meet any actual Spaniards apart from my teachers and host family. Sure I've gone into stores or restaurants and spoken to them but I want to make Spanish friends which is also proving hard since I'm only taking classes with American students.
I guess I'm just past the so-called "honeymoon" stage of studying abroad. I'm not really sure what I should be doing differently but as they say, something's got to give. Or maybe I should just lower my expectations. When I told people I was coming to Spain they always said it sounded amazing. Yeah, it is, but at the same time, it's like living anywhere else. And it's still not home.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
La Vida Diaria
First of all, can I just say thanks everyone for reading and commenting? Emily and Zach-- how the heck are you? Katie, haha I'm not going to try the oven thing. And Dad, hey you want to know the truth, right?
So I have started to settle into a sort of schedule and though it may sound boring, it's definitely nice to have a sense of normalcy. I have 4 hours of intensive Spanish classes every day, from 9AM-1PM which I'm actually enjoying because then I don't have to walk to school in the heat of the morning. The walk to school is about 30 minutes and we're even starting to recognize the same people. One of my favorite cafes, Cafe Futbol which has the best churros and chocolate in the city, is beginning to become a familiar place. There's even one waiter that recognizes us by sight when we walk by and says "buenos dias" every day. Then it's home again for lunch, a siesta, some facebook or homework time, maybe even a telenovela or two. My culture class usually starts at 5 or 6 in the afternoon after which we will take our time walking back or do a little window shopping on the way home. Dinner is generally tiny (and similar to breakfast) and at around 10 PM.
I'm still sure I'm going to get hit by a car or run over by a moped. There is no way they should be able to fit down those streets but somehow, they manage. I've learned to suck in my stomach to avoid those rear-view mirrors. Jaywalking is also a studied art here as you never know when someone will run a light or when exactly that red light means stop. This may seem somewhat risky but it's either that or stand out in the sunshine longer than necessary and at least cars are good about stopping for pedestrians. I'm also learning to seek out shady areas of sidewalks and streets, darting from side to side of the street like a lizard. In other words, I'm feeling more and more like a local.
Night has become my favorite time of day to walk around since between 9-12 everyone is out on the streets, buying ice cream or just sitting in the plazas. I've decided that if I could choose, I would like to be an old Spanish man in Granada. Let me explain. Everywhere you go, there are old men with canes and hats and dressed to the 9s, sitting in the plazas watching people pass by or talking fervently with the bar owners after the main lights of the bars have been shut off and everyone has gone home for the night. They're never in a hurry, will tip their hat to you on your walk by and seem to be great friends with every other old man living in Granada.
As for Spaniards in general, they are definitely talkative and open, although direct as a whole. They love to talk about what they love about Spain but they are also ready to be critical of the country as well. They take their time walking and almost never say "excuse me" when they brush into you on the street. Despite warnings from friends that all Europeans like to talk to you in English, I'm finding that most Andalucians are content to have me muddle through with my Spanish and they will respond to me in Spanish at least. And yes, I have to wear shoes around the house...
So I have started to settle into a sort of schedule and though it may sound boring, it's definitely nice to have a sense of normalcy. I have 4 hours of intensive Spanish classes every day, from 9AM-1PM which I'm actually enjoying because then I don't have to walk to school in the heat of the morning. The walk to school is about 30 minutes and we're even starting to recognize the same people. One of my favorite cafes, Cafe Futbol which has the best churros and chocolate in the city, is beginning to become a familiar place. There's even one waiter that recognizes us by sight when we walk by and says "buenos dias" every day. Then it's home again for lunch, a siesta, some facebook or homework time, maybe even a telenovela or two. My culture class usually starts at 5 or 6 in the afternoon after which we will take our time walking back or do a little window shopping on the way home. Dinner is generally tiny (and similar to breakfast) and at around 10 PM.
I'm still sure I'm going to get hit by a car or run over by a moped. There is no way they should be able to fit down those streets but somehow, they manage. I've learned to suck in my stomach to avoid those rear-view mirrors. Jaywalking is also a studied art here as you never know when someone will run a light or when exactly that red light means stop. This may seem somewhat risky but it's either that or stand out in the sunshine longer than necessary and at least cars are good about stopping for pedestrians. I'm also learning to seek out shady areas of sidewalks and streets, darting from side to side of the street like a lizard. In other words, I'm feeling more and more like a local.
Night has become my favorite time of day to walk around since between 9-12 everyone is out on the streets, buying ice cream or just sitting in the plazas. I've decided that if I could choose, I would like to be an old Spanish man in Granada. Let me explain. Everywhere you go, there are old men with canes and hats and dressed to the 9s, sitting in the plazas watching people pass by or talking fervently with the bar owners after the main lights of the bars have been shut off and everyone has gone home for the night. They're never in a hurry, will tip their hat to you on your walk by and seem to be great friends with every other old man living in Granada.
As for Spaniards in general, they are definitely talkative and open, although direct as a whole. They love to talk about what they love about Spain but they are also ready to be critical of the country as well. They take their time walking and almost never say "excuse me" when they brush into you on the street. Despite warnings from friends that all Europeans like to talk to you in English, I'm finding that most Andalucians are content to have me muddle through with my Spanish and they will respond to me in Spanish at least. And yes, I have to wear shoes around the house...
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